If someone would have asked me a few years ago to describe my ideas about the food habits in southern european countries with images, I would have definitely added a picture of a market colored with fresh fruits and vegetables. Since I live in Italy I have discovered that for some part this is the truth. If I had the time, I could visit a market everyday within the reach of one kilometre of my apartment. I also wish to go shopping in a covered market, as I know them from the Spanish cities, but unfortunately they do not exist in Milan. At least, not yet.
Mercato del Suffragio
Piazza Santa Maria del Suffragio 2 | Milano
02 5518 4461 | Facebook
Tuesday – Thursday| 8 – 21
Friday & Saturday | 08:30 – 22
Sunday | 09 – 21
In the fifties of the last century some twenty covered markets have been constructed in Milan: at least one for each neighborhood. These markets, open six days a week, hosted the stalls of traditional sellers and were the first step in the direction of the supermarket, a type of retail that at that time wasn’t known yet in Italy. In the last centuries the consumers have started to prefer the supermarket over the municipal food sellers, especially because of the bigger variety of products on offer and the more convenient opening hours. The increasing popularity of the supermarkets has caused the closure of many traditional market and the deterioration of others.
Popular but not popular
With the increase of the interest for food in general and more specifically food as a communication tool (think about the popularity of instagram accounts around food) – in Milan stimulated amongst others by Expo Milano, the universal exhibition that had as theme Feeding the Planet. Energy for Life – the municipality of Milan has understood that the municipal markets could again become important hubs in the city. They thus made available a first market, the one in Piazza Santa Maria del Suffragio, a rich area just East of the city centre and close to Milans’ wholesale market. The competition has been won by the baker Davide Longoni. In collaboration with other investors he opened, in the beginning of 2016, a place where the sales of products and direct consumption of these are of similar importance. Here the hungry can buy quality fruit and vegetables, bread, pizza and sweets made with sourdough, and fresh fish to prepare at home. At the same time one can also choose to consume right at the market, a oven-fresh pizza, a fruit cocktail, fish from the oven or a dish with seasonal vegetables.
Here the atmosphere is almost ‘posh’, as are the prices, but as it is in a wealthy neighborhood and as they offer high-quality products, this is OK. I go there every now and then, especially for the delicious sourdough bread or for a cup of coffee. And because I believe it is a concept that is valuable and I hope it inspires investors of other markets in Milan.
Mercato di Lorenteggio
Via Lorenteggio 177 | Milano
Website
Monday – Saturday | 8:30 – 19:30
Until the Second World War, Lorenteggio was an area full of agricultural activities with many farms and fields. Only in the ‘60 of the last century they decided to construct case popolare (public housing) here. Amongst others because of a lack of maintenance, today they are in big need of refurbishing and the major Sala has indicated the area as part of his plan to revive the peripheries and to resolve some of the housing problems.
One of the ongoing projects is related to the Mercato Lorenteggio, open since 1954. As many public markets in the city, also this one was deteriorating. With another problem added to it, namely the problematics related to popular neighborhoods like this one. The revival of this market follows four topics: besides doing your daily shopping, in this market one can eat, participate to cultural activities (they even have a ‘living’ and a book exchange) and enjoy oneself during an aperitivo or party organized in the market area. During the last year I have been there twice, both times just before lunch time. Here one eats good food (I suggest to try the horse meat that the butcher grills right before your eyes) at honest prices, adapted to the area. It is a typical neighborhood market, a public market and it is exactly this audience that one hopes to find here. Besides some tourists, off course.
Two markets both trying to sell fresh foods, but in completely different neighborhoods and with a completely different audience. There are many more markets to write about and I will check them out for you. So stay tuned on Le Strade di Milano.
All images © 2018 Inge de Boer
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